Windows Xp Sp3 Ghost All Chipset All Motherboard NEW!
I'm told by one person at a computer repair shop that it simply won't work on account of the differences in hardware. But maybe there is a way? I'd start by trying to ensure the mini-pc is assembled from hardware for which Windows XP is likely to have driver support (i.e. motherboard, chipset, what-else-I-do-not-know) so not brand new hardware just good enough hardware cobbled into a much smaller form factor than the current rig.
Windows Xp Sp3 Ghost All Chipset All Motherboard
You will need to find hardware that has no UEFI BIOS (XP won't run on UEFI, not even with Legacy/CSM support enabled). USB3 is out of the question too. And, as far as I know, no USB3 capable USB chipset has XP drivers (including no drivers for the USB2 fall-back mode).That basically means hardware from 2012 or even earlier.Then you would need to merge the motherboard and SATA drivers (and USB if you need that for mouse/keyboard) for the new hardware into the existing XP setup while it is still on the old hardware. (Difficult and error-prone.)Then you have to move the disk to the new hardware and pray. A lot of praying.If you can get it to boot at all chances are that you can get all other drivers running, but I won't put any bets on it.Besides: If you can't get it to work chances are that the XP install gets messed up so badly in the process it will not work on the original hardware anymore. You better have a very good backup just in case.
You'll find very limited support for Windows 7 on the latest motherboards. Intel for example has not been releasing Windows 7 chipset drivers for its latest chipsets, and AMD does not have drivers for Windows 7 on it's X570 boards. Microsoft themselves attempt to block the use of Intel 7th Gen+ processors, and AMD Zen processors onwards with Windows 7 - they install an update that blocks further updates from installing with an "incompatible processor" error (easily worked around with an unofficial patch). It's of limited use now anyway as updates will end altogether shortly when it becomes EOL, after which security vulnerabilities will go unfixed.
I recently had the opportunity to rebuild my work PC. It strongly resembles the "Little Bang" D.I.Y. system I outlined in my previous post on the philosophy of building your own computer.See, I do take my own advice.Here's a quick breakdown of the components and the rationale behind each. Every aspect of this system has been a blog post at one point or another.ASUS Vento 3600 case (green)Is there anything more boring than a beige box? The Vento is a little aggravating to work on, and it's a bit bulky. But it's unique, a total conversation starter, and the sparkly green model fits the Vertigo color scheme to a T. I even built my wife a PC using the red Vento. The 3600 has been discontinued in favor of the 7700; the newest version is, sadly, much uglier.MSI P6N SLI, NVIDIA 650i chipsetThe 650i is a far more economic variation of the ridiculously expensive NVIDIA 680i chipset, but offering the same excellent performance. Dual PCI express slots, for two video cards, is a must in my three-monitor world. It also has a fairly large, passive thin-fin northbridge cooler; quality of the motherboard chipset cooling is important, because modern motherboard chipsets can dissipate upwards of 20-30 watts all by themselves. And it still runs blazingly hot, even at idle.Intel Core 2 Duo E6600The Core 2 Duo is Intel's best processor in years. I opted for the E6600 because I have an unnatural love for large L2 caches, but even the cheapest Core Duo 2 runs rings around the competition. And all the Core 2 Duos overclock like mad. This one is running at 3 GHz with a very minor voltage bump for peace of mind.Antec NeoHE 380 watt power supplyGreat modular cable power supply, with around 80% efficiency at typical load levels. It's extremely quiet, per the SPCR review. It's a myth that you "need" a 500 watt power supply, but 380 W is about the lowest model you can buy these days. The quality of the power supply is far more important than any arbitrary watt number printed on its side.Scythe Ninja heatsinkThe Ninja, despite the goofy name, offers superlative performance. It is easily one of the all-time greatest heatsinks ever made, and still a top-rank performer. It's quite inexpensive these days, too. As you can see, I am running it fanless. The Ninja is particularly suited for passive operation because of the widely-spaced fins. It's easily cooled passively, even under overclocked, dual prime 95 load, by the 120 mm exhaust fan directly behind it. (Disclaimer: I have a giant heatsink fetish.)Dual passive GeForce 7600 GT 256 MB video cardsThe 7600 GT was the runaway champ in the video card power/performance analysis research I did last summer. The model I chose is a passively cooled, dual slot design from Gigabyte (model NX76T256D). It offers outstanding performance, it runs cool, it has dual DVI, and the design is clever. I liked this card so much, I bought two of them. Not for SLI (although that's now an option) but for more than two monitors. It's inexpensive, too, at around $115 per card.2 GB of generic PC800 DDR2I don't believe in buying expensive memory. It's not worth it, unless you're an extreme overclocker. I buy cheap, reasonable quality memory. Even the cheap stuff overclocks fairly well, at least for the moderate overclocks I'm shooting for.74 GB 10,000 RPM primary hard drive; 300 GB 7,200 RPM secondary hard driveI cannot emphasize enough how big the performance difference is between 10,000 RPM drives and 7,200 RPM drives. I know it's a little expensive, but the merits of the faster drive, plus the flexibility of having two spindles in your system, makes it well worth the investment.
According to the official Microsoft documentation -us/windows/hardware/gg463525.aspx, all its OSs starting from Windows Server 2003 SP1 support volumes with GPT markup as the data disks. However, only 64-bit Windows versions installed on motherboards supporting the new UEFI specification (Unified Extensible Firmware Interface) are able to boot from a GPT volume. Thus, it will not be possible to install or boot Windows from a GPT disk on older computers with classic BIOS firmware.
Thank you, WindowsOSHub. USB boot fix worked for me after I replaced my AM3+ UEFI motherboard with an AM3+ BIOS motherboard. (I wanted to re-use my CPU and RAM for cheap).The new motherboard could not boot the HDD with Win 10, because of GPT partition.I downloaded the MSWin10 installation media and made a Win 10 USB boot disk, using another working PC.I then used the Win 10 USB to boot my new motherboard.I then transferred the win boot files to another blank USB drive.Using this new boot USB drive, I restarted PC, and my old Windows booted OK.Windows then reactivated on line, and all updates went smoothly.PC will NOT boot windows without the boot USB. But that is acceptable for my desktop.
ok i made some hardware changes,also motherboard etc, but now i can't boot into my winxp. i could just reinstall it,i know,but i dont want to because i have some data and stuff in registry which i dont want to lose by reinstalling windows. i tried clearing CMOS, but it havent helped. it hungs where it should show me winxp boot screen. safe mode and any other modes dont work as well. so i think i could reset hardware configuration, i'm able to boot into recovery console. i deletet hal.inf in inf folder but still no luck. so,how to reset it (so it wont load any drivers on boot), or is there any other way? thanks
OptiPlex - both were/are VIA chipset motherboards. it has to work without reinstalling windows because i had 2 PCs,both had winxp installed, i changed the motherboards from one to the other pc, on PC1 windows has booted like a charm, but second pc can't.
Well, your motherboard SIS 650 chipset, as far as i know has an AGP [Accelerated Graphics Port, " where the graphics card sits in"] slot, i think it should be 8X & 4X, and max 2GByte dual channel memory. Going back to GRAW minimum specs, you will need better graphics [card] and you need a minimum of 1GByte of system memory [RAM] to bring you up to speed. You only got onboard motherboard graphics, not fast enough for todays 3D games, and you only have [224MB] of system memory [RAM], GRAW recommends a minimum of 1GByte [1024MB]. Your CPU is ok and your operating system [win xp] and the rest should be ok for now. Need to know who manufactured your motherboard, to double check specifications. I guess it all comes down to what you can afford to buy, how much money you got to spend on computer hardware?. If money is no problem, then there is much better faster hardware to buy, a complete upgrade if you like.
The CMOS settings on most systems are buffered by a small battery that is attached to the motherboard. (It looks like a small watch battery). If you unplug the PC and remove the battery for 10-15 minutes, the CMOS may reset itself and the password should be blank. (Along with any other machine specific settings, so be sure you are familiar with manually reconfiguring the BIOS settings before you do this.) Some manufacturers backup the power to the CMOS chipset by using a capacitor, so if your first attempt fails, leave the battery out (with the system unplugged) for at least 24 hours. Some batteries are actually soldered onto the motherboard making this task more difficult. Unsoldering the battery incorrectly may damage your motherboard and other components, so please don't attempt this if you are inexperienced. Another option may be to remove the CMOS chip from the motherboard for a period of time.
It is also possible to reset the CMOS by connecting or "jumping" specific solder beads on the chipset. There are too many chipsets to do a breakdown of which points to jump on individual chipsets, and the location of these solder beads can vary by manufacturer, so please check your computer and motherboard documentation for details. This technique is not recommended for the inexperienced and should be only be used as a "last ditch" effort. 350c69d7ab